How to Explore the Jordan Trail East North

The Jordan Trail is one of the most breathtaking long-distance hiking routes in the Middle East, stretching over 650 kilometers from Umm Qais in the north to Aqaba in the south. Within this expansive path, the East North sectionspanning from Jerash to the rugged highlands near Ajloun and beyondoffers a unique blend of ancient history, untouched desert landscapes, and authentic Bedouin hospitality. Unlike the more frequented southern segments, the East North portion remains relatively underdeveloped for tourism, making it a haven for travelers seeking solitude, cultural immersion, and raw natural beauty. Exploring this region requires careful planning, respect for local customs, and a deep appreciation for the lands layered heritage. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step roadmap to help you safely and meaningfully traverse the Jordan Trail East North, whether you're a seasoned trekker or a curious cultural explorer.

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Understand the Geography and Route Segments

The East North section of the Jordan Trail is not a single defined path but a network of interconnected trails, dirt roads, and ancient Roman and Nabatean footpaths. It generally begins near the Roman city of Jerash and extends northward through the Ajloun Forest Reserve, then eastward toward the desert escarpments near Umm Qais. Key segments include:

• Jerash to Ajloun (Approx. 35 km): A moderate ascent through olive groves and abandoned stone villages, following old Ottoman-era trade routes.
• Ajloun Forest Reserve to Bani Kinanah (Approx. 40 km): A transition from forested highlands to arid plateaus, with panoramic views of the Jordan Valley.
• Bani Kinanah to Umm Qais (Approx. 25 km): The final stretch, crossing ancient Roman roads and passing by the ruins of Gadara, one of the Decapolis cities.

These segments are not always clearly marked. GPS coordinates and topographic maps are essential. Always confirm current trail conditions with local guides or the Jordan Trail Association before departure.

2. Plan Your Timing

The ideal time to explore the East North section is between late March and early May, or from mid-September to mid-November. During these windows, daytime temperatures range between 18C and 28C, making hiking comfortable. Summers (JuneAugust) can exceed 40C, especially in the lower elevations near the Jordan Valley, while winters (DecemberFebruary) bring freezing nights and occasional rain that can turn trails to mud.

Spring offers the added bonus of wildflowers blooming across the highlands, particularly in the Ajloun region. Autumn provides clear skies and fewer hikers, enhancing the sense of solitude. Avoid public holidays and Islamic festivals, as local communities may be occupied with celebrations, and some guesthouses or water sources may be closed.

3. Obtain Necessary Permits and Documentation

Unlike some national parks, the Jordan Trail East North does not require a formal permit for hiking. However, you must carry a valid passport and visa for entry into Jordan. If you plan to camp outside designated areas (which is permitted in most of the East North), inform local authorities or village elders in advancethis is both a legal courtesy and a cultural necessity.

Some sections pass near military zones or archaeological reserves. Always check with the Department of Antiquities (DoA) for restricted areas. For example, the ridge near Umm Qais has protected Roman mosaics; straying off-trail here is prohibited. Carry a printed copy of your itinerary and emergency contacts with you at all times.

4. Arrange Transportation to the Starting Point

Most hikers begin their East North journey at Jerash. The city is accessible by bus from Amman (1 hour) or by private taxi (approximately 45 minutes). Public buses run regularly from the North Bus Station (Tabarbour) in Amman to Jerash. If youre arriving from the airport, book a private transfer in advance to ensure reliability.

For those beginning at Umm Qais (as an end point), transportation is more limited. Taxis from Irbid or Safi are available but infrequent. Consider pre-booking a driver through your accommodation or using the Jordan Trail Associations shuttle coordination service, which connects key trailheads for hikers.

5. Pack Appropriately for Terrain and Climate

The East North terrain is diverse: rocky ascents, loose scree, packed earth trails, and occasional steep drop-offs. Your gear must reflect this variety.

Essential gear includes:

• Sturdy, broken-in hiking boots with ankle support
• Lightweight, moisture-wicking clothing layers (long sleeves recommended for sun and brush protection)
• Waterproof and windproof outer shell (weather can change rapidly in the highlands)
• 1.52 liters of water capacity per day (plus purification tablets or a filter)
• High-energy snacks: nuts, dried fruit, energy bars, and local bread (khubz) for replenishment
• Headlamp with extra batteries
• First-aid kit including blister care, antiseptic, and antihistamines
• Portable solar charger for GPS and phone
• Small notebook and pen (for recording waypoints or interacting with locals)

Do not rely on finding water sources along the route. Even in spring, seasonal springs may be dry. Carry a lightweight water filter (like a Sawyer Squeeze) and electrolyte tablets. Avoid plastic bottles; use refillable containers to reduce environmental impact.

6. Choose Your Accommodation Strategy

Accommodation along the East North trail is sparse but culturally rich. There are no chain hotels. Instead, travelers stay in:

• Community guesthouses: Run by local families in villages like Bani Kinanah or Aqabat Faisal. These offer basic rooms, home-cooked meals, and often include guided walking tours.
• Bedouin camps: In the eastern foothills near Umm Qais, nomadic families may host hikers for a night under the starsoften in exchange for a small donation or help with chores.
• Wild camping: Permitted in most areas, but only if done responsibly. Choose flat, non-vegetated ground, at least 200 meters from water sources, and pack out all waste.

Reservations are not always possible. Many guesthouses operate on a first-come, first-served basis. Carry cash (Jordanian Dinars) as credit cards are rarely accepted. Learn basic Arabic phrases like Shukran (Thank you) and Kayf al-hal? (How are you?) to build rapport.

7. Navigate Using Reliable Tools

Cell service is unreliable beyond Jerash and Umm Qais. Do not depend on Google Maps or Apple Maps for navigation. Instead, use:

• Offline maps: Download the official Jordan Trail app (available on iOS and Android) or use Gaia GPS with the Jordan Trail layer pre-loaded.
• Topographic maps: Purchase the Jordan Trail East North map from the Jordan Trail Association or local bookstores in Amman. These show elevation changes, springs, and ruins.
• Compass and physical landmarks: Learn to identify key markers: the ruins of a Roman aqueduct, a distinctive rock formation near Ajloun, or the silhouette of Umm Qais Roman theater against the horizon.

Always carry a backup power source. A small solar panel (like the Anker 21W) can recharge your GPS device during daylight hours.

8. Engage with Local Communities

The East North trail is not just a pathits a living corridor of cultural exchange. Villagers in this region are deeply proud of their heritage and often eager to share it.

When passing through a village:

• Ask permission before photographing people or homes.
• Offer to buy fresh produce, honey, or handicrafts directly from the source.
• Participate in iftar (evening meal) if invitedthis is a profound cultural experience.
• Respect gender norms: women should cover shoulders and knees, especially in conservative areas.

Many villages host Trail Hostslocal residents trained by the Jordan Trail Association to assist hikers. Look for signs with a blue walking person symbol. These hosts can provide water, directions, or even a place to rest. Their knowledge of hidden springs and safe routes is invaluable.

9. Practice Leave No Trace Principles

The East North trail is ecologically fragile. With increasing footfall, conservation is critical.

Follow these principles:

• Carry out all trashincluding biodegradable items like fruit peels.
• Use established fire pits or avoid open flames entirely; use a camping stove.
• Do not remove stones, plants, or artifactseven small pottery shards.
• Stick to existing trails to prevent erosion and protect native flora.
• Use biodegradable soap and wash at least 60 meters from water sources.

Consider carrying a small trash bag to collect litter you find along the way. Many locals appreciate this gesture and may even join you.

10. Prepare for Emergencies

Cell coverage is patchy. In case of emergency:

• Know the nearest village and its approximate distance.
• Carry a satellite communicator (like Garmin inReach Mini 2) if venturing into remote zones.
• Share your daily itinerary with a trusted contact back home.
• Keep a printed list of local emergency numbers:

  - Police: 911

  - Civil Defense: 911

  - Jordan Trail Association (for non-emergency support): +962 6 565 5050

Dehydration and heat exhaustion are the most common issues. If you feel dizzy, nauseous, or experience cramping, stop immediately, find shade, and sip water with electrolytes. Do not continue until fully recovered.

Best Practices

1. Hike with Purpose, Not Just Distance

Many hikers focus on covering kilometers per day. In the East North, the journey is measured in moments: the silence of a 5,000-year-old olive tree, the call to prayer echoing from a hilltop mosque, the taste of wild thyme tea shared with a Bedouin elder. Slow down. Allow yourself to be present. A 10-kilometer day with deep cultural interaction is more valuable than 25 kilometers spent in silence.

2. Travel Light, But Not Bare

Minimalism is wise, but dont sacrifice safety for weight. A 200-gram extra item (like a lightweight emergency blanket or a water filter) can be lifesaving. Prioritize multi-use gear: a buff can serve as a head covering, sweatband, or face mask.

3. Respect Sacred Sites

The East North corridor is rich with religious heritage. Youll pass by ancient churches, Islamic shrines, and Christian monastic ruins. Enter these spaces quietly. Remove your shoes if required. Do not sit on prayer rugs or touch religious objects. Photographing interiors of mosques is often prohibitedalways ask.

4. Learn Basic Arabic Phrases

Even a few words go a long way. Essential phrases:

• As-salamu alaykum Peace be upon you (greeting)
• Shukran Thank you
• Min fadlak Please (to a man)
• Min fadlik Please (to a woman)
• Wain al-ma? Where is water?
• Hal yumkinukum an tusharikuni? Can you share with me?

Locals will appreciate the effort, and youll unlock deeper conversations and invitations.

5. Avoid Crowds by Timing Your Days

Most hikers arrive at popular viewpoints at sunrise or sunset. To avoid them, hike during mid-morning or late afternoon. The light is softer, the air cooler, and the trails quieter. Youll also have better chances of encountering local shepherds or farmers working the land.

6. Document Responsibly

Photography is powerful, but it must be ethical. Never photograph children without parental consent. Avoid staging exotic scenes for social media. Instead, capture the quiet dignity of daily life: a woman grinding grain, a child chasing goats, the texture of ancient stone under morning light.

7. Support Local Economies

Every meal, every bottle of water, every souvenir you buy should come from a local source. Avoid imported snacks or branded gear. Buy honey from Ajloun, olive oil from Bani Kinanah, handwoven rugs from Umm Qais. This ensures your presence benefits the community directly.

8. Prepare for Silence

There is no Wi-Fi, no music, no advertisements in the East North. Embrace the silence. It is not emptinessit is presence. Bring a journal, a sketchpad, or simply sit and listen: the wind through the juniper trees, the distant bleating of sheep, the crunch of gravel underfoot.

Tools and Resources

Official Jordan Trail Association (JTA)

The JTA is the primary steward of the trail. Their website (jordantrail.org) offers downloadable maps, trail updates, volunteer opportunities, and contact information for certified guides. They also publish an annual Trail Handbook available in print and digital formats.

Mobile Apps

• Jordan Trail App (iOS/Android): Official app with GPS waypoints, elevation profiles, and descriptions of 100+ points of interest.
• Gaia GPS: Premium app with topographic layers and offline access. Download the Jordan Trail East North custom map set.
• AllTrails: Useful for user-submitted photos and recent trail conditions, but verify accuracy with official sources.

Books and Guides

• Walking the Jordan Trail by Michael Kohn Comprehensive guide with historical context and route details.
• The Ancient Roads of Jordan by Dr. Rami Khoury Academic yet accessible history of the Roman and Nabatean networks that form the trails foundation.
• Bedouin Life in the Northern Highlands by Aisha Al-Hussein Cultural insights from a local anthropologist.

Maps and Cartography

Physical maps are critical:

• Jordan Trail East North Map (1:50,000) Available from JTA or the Royal Geographical Society in Amman.
• USGS Topographic Maps Some areas are covered by older U.S. military surveys; useful for elevation analysis.
• Google Earth Pro Use the historical imagery tool to see how trails have changed over decades.

Local Guides and Organizations

For those seeking structured support:

• Jerash Cultural Tours Offers guided day hikes from Jerash to Ajloun with historical narration.
• Ajloun Nature Reserve Rangers Provide free trail briefings and can connect you with village hosts.
• Umm Qais Heritage Society Organizes community-led walking tours ending at the Roman theater.

Booking a guide for your first day is highly recommended. They can teach you how to read the landscape, identify safe water sources, and interpret ancient markers.

Weather and Trail Condition Resources

• Weather.com Check forecasts for Jerash, Ajloun, and Irbid.
• Jordan Meteorological Department Official site with rainfall and wind alerts (jordanmet.gov.jo).
• Facebook Groups Search Jordan Trail Hikers or East North Trail Updates for real-time reports from recent trekkers.

Real Examples

Example 1: Sarahs Solo Journey from Jerash to Ajloun

Sarah, a 32-year-old architect from Canada, spent five days hiking the Jerash-to-Ajloun segment alone. She began at dawn, carrying only a 12-liter backpack. Her first night was spent in a guesthouse in the village of Al-Ras, where the host, Mrs. Fatima, served her zaatar bread and lentil soup. Sarah documented the experience in her journal, noting how the scent of thyme and pine lingered in the air long after sunset.

On day three, she missed a trail marker and ended up on a goat path. Instead of panicking, she followed the sound of bells and found a shepherd named Ahmed. He walked with her for two hours, pointing out ancient cisterns hidden under brush. This path, he said, was used by my grandfather to carry salt to Damascus. Sarah later returned with a group of friends, donating funds to restore the cistern.

Example 2: The Al-Masri Familys Trail Host Program

In the village of Bani Kinanah, the Al-Masri family opened their home to hikers in 2020. They converted a stone storage room into a guest room with a mattress, blankets, and a solar-powered lamp. Each night, they serve a communal meal: freekeh stew, pickled turnips, and mint tea. In return, they ask hikers to share stories from their homelands.

One hiker, a retired teacher from Germany, taught the children how to make origami cranes. Now, the village hosts an annual Trail Stories Night, where guests and locals exchange tales under the stars. The program has become a model for community-based tourism in northern Jordan.

Example 3: The Umm Qais Rescue

In October 2022, a group of four hikers from the UK became disoriented near the cliffs of Umm Qais during a sudden sandstorm. Their GPS failed. One hiker had a sprained ankle. They used their satellite communicator to send a distress signal. A local Bedouin family, alerted by a shepherd, walked 4 kilometers through the storm to find them. They provided water, wrapped the injured hiker in wool blankets, and guided them to a nearby farmhouse.

The group later funded a solar-powered emergency beacon at the trails eastern terminus. We didnt just get rescued, said one hiker. We were welcomed. That changed everything.

Example 4: The Archaeological Discovery

In 2021, a Dutch hiker noticed a carved stone near a dry streambed between Ajloun and Bani Kinanah. He photographed it and sent it to the Department of Antiquities. Experts identified it as a 2,000-year-old milestone from the Roman road connecting Pella to Gerasa. The site was later excavated and is now a protected waypoint on the trail.

Its a reminder: the trail is not static. Every hiker contributes to its story.

FAQs

Is the Jordan Trail East North safe for solo travelers?

Yes, but only with preparation. The region is low-crime, and locals are generally welcoming. However, the terrain is remote and challenging. Solo travelers should carry a satellite communicator, share their itinerary, and avoid hiking after dark. Many women have completed the trail solo and report feeling safer here than in urban areas.

Can I bring my dog on the trail?

It is not recommended. The trail passes through private farmland, and many villagers keep livestock. Dogs may be seen as a threat. Additionally, water sources are limited and must be reserved for human use. Leave pets at home.

Do I need to speak Arabic?

No, but learning a few phrases will significantly enhance your experience. Many villagers speak basic English, especially younger generations. However, in remote areas, Arabic is essential for communication. A translation app with offline capability (like Google Translate) is helpful but not a substitute for human interaction.

Are there ATMs along the trail?

No. The nearest ATMs are in Jerash, Ajloun, Irbid, and Umm Qais. Withdraw cash before starting your journey. Jordanian Dinars (JOD) are the only accepted currency. Credit cards are rarely accepted outside major towns.

What should I do if I get lost?

Stop. Do not panic. Use your GPS to determine your last known location. Look for landmarks: roads, ruins, or water sources. If youre unsure, head downhillmost villages are located in valleys. If you have a satellite communicator, send your coordinates. If not, wait until you see someonevillagers often walk the trails daily.

Can I camp anywhere along the trail?

Yes, in most areasbut not near archaeological sites, military zones, or private property. Always camp at least 200 meters from water sources. Avoid areas with visible animal tracks or signs of recent use (like fire pits or trash). Leave no trace.

Is the trail suitable for children?

Portions of the East North trail are suitable for older children (12+) with hiking experience. The Jerash-to-Ajloun segment is relatively gentle. However, the eastern escarpments involve steep climbs and exposed ridges. Do not bring infants or toddlers. Always carry extra water and snacks for young hikers.

How do I support conservation efforts?

Donate to the Jordan Trail Association, volunteer for trail maintenance days, or contribute to community guesthouse funds. Avoid single-use plastics. Consider planting a tree in your name through the JTAs reforestation program. Every action counts.

Conclusion

Exploring the Jordan Trail East North is not merely a physical journeyit is a pilgrimage through time, culture, and landscape. Unlike the curated experiences of popular tourist sites, this region offers raw authenticity: the scent of wild oregano after rain, the echo of a shepherds flute across a valley, the quiet dignity of a village elder offering you tea without expecting anything in return.

By following the steps outlined hereplanning with care, respecting the land and its people, traveling lightly yet thoughtfullyyou become more than a visitor. You become a steward of a living heritage.

The East North trail does not demand greatness. It asks only for presence. Slow down. Listen. Walk with intention. The stones remember. The wind carries stories. And if youre lucky, youll hear them.